旅行星球

Skiers hit the slopes at Whiteface Mountain near Lake Placid.

From family-friendly slopes to adrenaline-pumping terrain parks, discover why this state is the ultimate winter playground. Hint: It’s not Colorado.

New York is home to one of the world’s most well-known cities, vastly diverse landscapes, and several famous landmarks, but you’d probably never guess that it is also home to the highest number of ski resorts in the entire country — more than the number of states, in fact. But with 52 ski resorts of all shapes and sizes, New York proudly wears that badge of honor. 

 From the Hudson Valley and the Catskills to the Adirondack Mountains and the Western Chautauqua-Allegheny region, much of New York State’s 54,555 square miles transform into a winter wonderland for several months. Thanks to lake-effect snow, the Empire State receives some of the highest snow totals in the nation.

There’s a skiing and snowboarding area for every skill level, with everything from well-known destination resorts to smaller, off-the-beaten-path community ski hills and Nordic trails.

Ski like an Olympian at one of New York State’s most famous mountains: Whiteface. A behemoth situated in the Adirondacks just north of Lake Placid, this is a town made famous by hosting the Olympics not once, but twice (1932 and 1980). Whiteface Mountain served as the ski competition site for the latter winter. It also has the greatest vertical east of the Rockies, at 3,430 feet.

With 96 total trails that span over 25 miles and three peaks, the mountain caters to beginners through advanced skiers and riders; however, it is best known for its challenging runs and being a training ground for several medal-placing athletes. Nicknamed “Iceface” for the notoriously icy conditions, it's also a classic East Coast skiing destination.

The ski season is long in the northern Adirondacks; it has even stretched into early May at Whiteface.

The family-run Plattekill Mountain in the western Catskills is one of four in the area, but it has something the others don’t: old-school charm. The mountain also has an all-around appeal for families, beginners, and experts looking to challenge themselves on one of the exhilarating black diamond runs. This resort is for weekenders, though, as it is only open Friday-Sunday and holidays.

With the fresh addition of “Whiskey’s Way,” Plattekill now has 41 trails this season, the highest with a vertical drop of 1,100 feet. Want to hit the slopes on a weekday? No problem — you can rent the entire mountain and zip down the trails with only your favorite ski or board buddies. Whether you choose to visit Plattekill Mountain publicly or privately, take time to enjoy the on-site The Blockbuster Bar. Plan ahead and make sure to visit on specific Saturdays, when you can sample local beers during brewery visits. 

(Related: The best places in the world to go see some snow.)

Western New York’s go-to spot for skiing, snowboarding, and general recreation is Holiday Valley, located in Ellicottville, just south of Buffalo. It is also one of the beneficiaries of abundant lake-effect snowfall. Opened in 1958 by a trio of friends who sold stock shares from a card table in the parking lot, Holiday Valley’s humble start landed them with four slopes and a T-bar.

These days, the mountain has 60 trails with 13 lifts, a vertical drop of 750 feet, three base lodges, and a slew of amenities, including a golf course and a mountain coaster. Lessons, night skiing, cross-country skiing, tubing, and snowshoeing are some of the other offerings, and with the wide range of runs for every skill level, it’s a well-rounded ski destination for all.

In addition to indulging in après-ski activities at one of the on-site lodges, it’s worth a stop into Ellicottville where you’ll be sure to find live music.

Situated in the charming town of Speculator, Oak Mountain has been the resident winter playground since 1948. With 22 trails, 4 lifts, and a vertical drop of 650 feet, as well as snowshoeing and tubing, this small, hometown mountain gets approximately 120 inches of snow a year. Typically open Friday-Sunday, Oak Mountain is another destination that groups can rent out on the off-days for private use.

Each March, the end-of-the-season "Pondskimming" event draws crowds for a fun-filled day with competitions involving whizzing down the ski hill across a frigid pond, in costume; the more ridiculous the better. Trophies are awarded for various categories, including “best splash” and “best costume," among others.

Ski, snowboard, and tube into the night at Woods Valley Ski Area in Westernville, New York. With an extensive live music schedule, après-ski entertainment abounds in the lodge multiple times a week. Opened in 1964 with grooming done manually by owner Dave Woods using a handcrafted roller, Woods Valley Ski Area has come a long way.

Today, 21 trails and a 500-foot vertical serve as the area’s winter playing field. Additionally, a fantastic bunny hill complete with a “wonder carpet” for beginners in the Learning Zone is a huge family draw. From the top, skiers and boarders can soak up views of Delta Lake in the nearby state park. When you're done skiing, or in between runs, pop into the lodge for a drink and tunes at Tap Room 46; you’ll be tapping your boots in no time.

As the oldest operating ski area in the state, Mount Peter had a less-than-ordinary start. Fueled by fashion, Mount Peter was created by Macy’s, Inc. in 1936 as a marketing tactic to sell their ski clothing by sparking a passion for winter.

Today, Mount Peter is still going strong and remains one of the few family-run ski areas in the state. At just an hour drive north of Manhattan, it’s an easy skiing escape for city dwellers and an ideal spot for beginners thanks to its free ski and snowboard school.

Ski or snowboard on their 13 groomed trails, including a 400-foot vertical drop, and hit up the 600-foot tubing run. Post skiing, warm up at Pete’s Pub with a bowl of their famous chili and grab a brew to cheers to a fun day.

(Related: Want to learn how to ski? Let an Olympian teach you.)

Lauren Breedlove is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Upstate New York who writes about off-the-beaten-path endeavors, remote destinations, outdoor exploits, unique stays, quirky festivals, and authentic cultural and culinary experiences with an adventurous spirit. She contributes to national and regional publications in both print and digital.

 

 

Women stuck to nightgowns until the 1920s, when pajamas like these in a 1922 illustration by Xavier Sager started to become acceptable.

After the British Raj was established, the Indian kurta pajama became fashionable across Europe and was eventually adapted into matching sets.

Today, in the Western world, pajamas are all about comfort and coziness for sleeping or lounging. However, they originated in Asia, where they were worn as outerwear. At first, “pajama” (singular) designated only the pants part of what we now know as “pajamas” (plural). The term comes from the Persian pae-jamah, meaning leg garment.

Some 3,000 years ago, the nomadic horsemen of western China started to wear loose pants tied at the waist rather than an undivided robe or tunic. The garment was later adopted by the Persians and became popular throughout Asia. In India, the pajama was combined with a kurta—a long, loose-fitting, collarless shirt. The kurta pajama combination is still popular with both sexes as outerwear today.

Europeans who traveled to India in the 17th and 18th centuries saw locals wearing the kurta pajama. The garment, made of soft cotton or Asian silk, with few seams and a loose design, offered a comfortable contrast to the stiff, tight-fitting fashions in Europe at the time. But among Europeans, it was only the privileged few who got to own an authentic set. Some aristocrats brought them back from their travels in Asia to show them off at court.

(You’ve seen the ads. Do you know the history of underwear?)

William Feilding, the first Earl of Denbigh, donned his Indian kurta pajama for a portrait by fashionable court painter Anthony Van Dyck.

Feilding had acquired his Asian attire during a 1631 trip to the court of Shah Safi I of Persia and Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor of India. The painting was made in England, and by donning a red-striped kurta pajama, the earl intended to strike a chord that would impress upon viewers his knowledge of far-flung lands and customs. Peeking out from underneath the kurta were the collar and sleeves of a Western-style shirt.

The garments depicted in the portrait were made of silk. After centuries of trade with China, Europeans had learned to produce silk in Europe around the 12th century. But even in the 1600s, it was still costly to buy in England and associated with exoticism and Asian luxury. The earl was attended by a young servant who accompanied him from India and wore a longer but equally luxurious kurta pajama and a patterned turban.

Later, when British rule was established over India in the 18th and 19th centuries, the fashion for Indian dress spread in Europe. For comfortable home wear, the British adopted garments such as the banyan, a robe somewhat similar to a Japanese kimono, that was worn like a dressing gown over a shirt and jacket. Meanwhile, British officials in India realized the advantages of the kurta pajama as casual wear; it was far more comfortable in the Indian heat than traditional Western dress.

(A surprising must-wear for European monarchs? Weasels.)

Among all social classes in Europe, some sort of undergarment, usually made of linen or wool, was worn in bed. Then in the 18th and 19th centuries, a specific garment for sleeping emerged: The nightshirt, or nightgown, was worn by both men and women. It was not until the late 19th century that “pajamas” (now referring to the two-piece set of loose trousers and shirt) became garments for sleeping.

It seems that it was upper-class men in the Victorian era who swapped their nightgowns for the comfortable and elegant alternative of pajamas. The two-piece sleeping suit combined a loose shirt and pants, as worn in India, adapted to European tastes. The shirt was shorter than the kurta and a collar and buttons were added.

(Your khaki pants have a history that may surprise you.)

British influence spread the garb’s popularity. Initially, pajamas were luxury garments made by specialized tailors. However, at the end of the 19th century, mass production of pajamas developed in the United States and quickly became widespread. Those who couldn’t afford a tailor no longer had to make do with old shirts or homemade nightgowns.

Two-piece pajamas were now available for a reasonable price in department stores. The fashion would take off in the rest of continental Europe after World War I, in part because of American influence.

Adam-chemisier, a specialized French men’s fashion magazine, ran a six-page feature in 1933 focused on extolling the virtues of pajamas over traditional nightshirts. The article stated:

After the war, with the arrival of the Americans, who only knew pajamas as nightwear, the [French] manufacturers tried to popularize them. It was obviously necessary to launch them onto the market at affordable prices to respond to the modest means of the general public . . . The idea forged ahead and with each new season, sales increased . . . Except among children and some old-fashioned people, the solemn nightgown has lost popularity with the buyer.

(This French king took men’s hair to new heights.)

The author of the article went on to highlight the significant shortcomings of the nightshirt, which were most evident when trying to get out of bed in a decorous manner:

Pajamas leave a similarly great freedom of movement, necessary for the body during sleep, and favor dignity and correctness that were not satisfied [with the nightshirt]. There was a broken equilibrium (equilibrium being the primordial quality of elegance) that the pajamas have reestablished and to which they have added the grace of their line.

A man stands in a pair of striped pajamas in a 1927 drawing from French fashion magazine.

A 1903 advertisement for Harrods Department Store in London shows four kinds of "gentlemen's nightshirts" for "pyjamas".

Initially, pajamas were marketed only to men. A key to their success was that they were seen as more manly than nightshirts. Cinema, in the first half of the 20th century, contributed to this image. Old Hollywood star Clark Gable brought pajama-wearing to a peak of elegance in the 1934 movie It Happened One Night, and the four pairs of pajamas worn by James Stewart in the 1954 thriller Rear Window contributed to the movie’s iconic status.

(When men's fashion had a revolution—in medieval times.)

Women stuck with the traditional nightgown for longer, mirroring the reality that wearing pants (as day wear) had still not become widely practiced. This began to change in the 1920s. Corsets, long skirts, and big hats were set aside for freer, more comfortable fashion, and pajamas started to make waves in women’s wear.

At first, they were worn as outer garments in the form of summer pantsuits called beach pajamas. Couturier Coco Chanel helped set the trend when pictured in beach pajamas on the French Riviera. Chanel’s outfits often combined brightly colored, loose-fitting pants with a tighter-fitting shirt.

During World War II, the rationing of raw materials meant the design of pajamas became less about fashion and more about practicality. Comfortable, warm fabrics, such as cotton or wool blends, were used. After the war, as an atmosphere of conservative family values prevailed, pajamas were seen as a more demure choice for women than the nightgown, whose bows and low-cut designs started to develop erotic overtones.

Some of the kurta pajama’s adaptations have been embraced in India, where the garment has become a source of pride and blends traditional and contemporary fashion. Western influence on the outfit has led to it being reimagined in creative ways, using different fabrics and cuts. It remains a staple piece of Indian street wear, but it is also worn for special occasions such as weddings and festivals.

(In 1500s Europe, masks were fashionable—and scandalous.)

This story appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of National Geographic History magazine.

Literally translated as the ‘golden coast’, Costa Daurada is, unsurprisingly, famed for its honey-hued sand and countless beaches. But while this southeastern corner of Catalonia enjoys a long, leisurely summer, there’s much to discover outside of the warmest months — and away from the coastline. The region's mountainous interior offers everything from heart-pumping hiking trails and intriguing ancient history to award-winning vineyards and sea-to-spoon gastronomy. For those looking to discover the region in depth, here are six of Costa Daurada's top destinations and how best to explore them.

Best for: a wine-tasting tour
From the steep, rocky valleys of the Serra del Montsant Natural Park to the quaint, medieval villages tucked into its surrounding hills, Priorat’s scenery is spectacular at every turn. Yet the region’s lush landscapes are dominated by one specific type of vegetation — vineyards. The area is one of only a few places in the world to grow Garnatxa grapes, a cultivation made possible thanks to the warm, dry climate and mineral-rich slate soil known locally as llicorella. The results are exceptionally rich, full-bodied reds with distinctive earthy notes that have gained international attention. For the best introduction, hop between the region’s picturesque villages, stopping at some of the many vineyards and cellars for tours or tastings. Be sure to stop off at the well-preserved Cartoixa d'Escaladei monastery. It was here, in the foothills of Priorat’s Montsant mountains, that monks began making wine in the 12^th century. As the night draws in, make a detour east to Prades, just outside the Priorat region, where the Parc Astronòmic Muntanyes de Prades sits amid Europe's largest protected night sky area and offers stargazing sessions and astronomy shows.

Best for: coastal cuisine
The seaside town of Cambrils is Costa Daurada’s gastronomic heart. The miles of fields surrounding the area deliver farm-fresh produce to restaurants, including award-winning olive oil, Cambrils’ wonderful white artichokes and the nutty sweet red peppers used for the region’s speciality Romesco sauce. However, farm-to-fork is surpassed by sea-to-spoon at many seafront spots in Cambrils. The town has a long and rich fishing heritage, with boats heading out daily in search of local specialities such as mantis shrimp, squid, anchovies and octopus. Head down to the port in the afternoon (around 5pm) to watch the whirlwind of activity as fishermen bring in the day's catch before sampling it for yourself at one of the town's many traditional eateries.

Best for: art and architecture
While Antoni Gaudí is synonymous with Barcelona, the visionary architect was born in Reus, a town nine miles north west of Tarragona. Today, Gaudí fans can visit the church at which he was baptised and the Gaudí Center, an engaging space that uses audiovisual exhibits to tell the story of his life and work. Throughout the town, you’ll spot examples of Catalonian modernism — the architectural style made famous by Gaudí and likened to a Catalan take on art nouveau — on every corner. There are nearly 80 buildings in the style here, but the most notable is Casa Navàs, designed by fellow Reus native Domènech i Montaner. It’s the only building from the period with a totally intact interior, featuring towering stained glass windows, colourful mosaic floors and intricate carved stone arches. Montaner’s Pere Mata Institute, a former psychiatric hospital, is equally ornate. While in Reus, visitors should also be sure not to miss sampling the local vermouth, which is made according to a secret regional recipe. Head to the town's Vermouth Museum, where you can sip a glass of the finest local variation while learning about its rich history.

Best for: ancient history
This hilltop port city — known as Tarraco when it was first occupied by the Romans in the 2nd century — is one of Spain’s most notable historical destinations. Its most spectacular site is the well-preserved Roman Amphitheatre, which has impressive views out over the sea. Other Roman ruins in the city centre include the remains of the city walls, the Praetorium tower and Circo Romano de Tarraco — the ancient chariot racecourse. To learn more about the Romans' importance to the region, the archaeology museum, Museu Nacional Arqueològic de Tarragona, gives excellent historical context alongside further exhibits, most notably a majestic mosaic collection. Tarragona is also a prime spot to experience Catalonia's famous castells, human towers that have been declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. These constructions, which can reach between six and ten people high, were first introduced in the 18th century along Costa Daurada.

The Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet is one of the highlights of the Ruta del Cister and is still home to a community of monks.

Catalonia's castells (human towers) have been declared one of the UNESCO Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Best for: trails and tradition
This circular trail links the three historic monasteries of Santes Creus, Poblet and Vallbona de les Monges and offers a more active way to explore Costa Daurada. Hike, bike or e-bike through pristine rolling hills, olive groves and woodlands, discovering intriguing medieval villages like Montblanc, whose historic walls remain well-preserved. More than just a picturesque path, the route is also a cultural immersion into Catalan life. Between the months of November and April, there may also be opportunities to join a local Calçotada along the route. These community events originated in the municipality of Valls and celebrate the harvest of calçots — vegetables that are a cross between a spring onion and a leek — by cooking them over an open fire and serving them to revellers with a Romesco sauce.

Best for: music and culture
El Vendrell’s most famous export, the cellist Pau Casals, has left a lasting mark on this town. Learn about his life at the house he was born in or at the Pau Casals Museum, located at his summer residence on Sant Salvador beach. For more music and culture, the Pau Casals Auditorium has a year-round jazz, classical and dance programme, while the Deu Museum's collection of art ranges from the 12th century to the present day and features Spanish sculpture, painting and decorative objects. Meanwhile, just over two miles from the town, the four-mile stretch of fine-sand beaches in front of the neighbourhoods of Sant Salvador, Coma-ruga and El Francàs have shallow, safe water for swimming and a healing high iodine quality. You can learn more about their coastal culture at the recently opened Tabaris Museum, a site that highlights the sea's importance to the architecture, history and natural landscapes of the region.

Plan your trip
Direct flights are available from many UK hubs into Reus Airport. Car hire is the most inexpensive and easiest way to get around, but local train and bus routes are also well served.

For more information, visit costadaurada.info

This paid content article was created for Costa Daurada as part of a joint initiative with the Catalan Tourism Board. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.

To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here.(Available in select countries only).

How do you read? Some people only read dialogue, while others might skip long sections of text or only read the first and last sentence in a paragraph. Others say they read each word, and revisit the same section two or three times to make sure that they don’t miss anything.

The digital age has had a profound impact on how we read. Surveys show that Americans are reading fewer books per year than they did 30 years ago. And although the rise of social media communities like #BookTok has likely increased book sales over the last few years, the average American spends about 26 minutes reading per day but three hours on the internet or watching TV.

Experts say that the sheer amount of information available at our fingertips has changed how we take in information. Online, Americans receive the data equivalent of 174 newspapers per day and spend an average of 55 seconds reading an article. 

Nowadays, studies suggest that we spend more time skimming and scanning, rather than close reading. Some experts bemoan the loss of our ability to slow down and read deeply, while others say we can get it back with a little practice. So is there a “right” way to read? Here’s what some experts have to say about it.

According to experts, skimming—where you skip over words and sections to grasp the main idea of a text—is a common reading strategy. That’s totally fine, says Daniel Willingham, a psychologist at the University of Virginia—as long as skimming or scanning doesn’t get in the way of understanding.

When thinking about how best to read a text, reading experts say that you should first consider what you want to get out of it. If your goal is to read for pleasure or finish in a short amount of time, skimming is a great way to get the general idea of what a text is saying, says Joanna Christodoulou, a professor in the department of communication sciences and disorders at the MGH Institute of Health Professions. Skimming is sufficient for most beach reads, for example, don’t require us to recall details of a scene or tackle many complex or unknown words. The goal doesn’t always have to be explicit. Skimming can get you “headline” comprehension of something, so trying to catch up on news might drive you to skim, scan, and jump around to different articles, Christodoulou says. 

A person’s familiarity with the type of text they’re reading might influence the strategy they use to read, Christodoulou says. Someone that reads a lot of mystery novels, for example, may get used to the structure and feelings that are elicited by the text and thus be able to skip or skim sections and still get what’s going on. Similarly, if you’re reading a lot of books on a specific subject, like art history, you might get more familiar with the terminology. That might improve how efficiently you can read them and how much you can retain, Christodolou says. Studies suggest that the one way to improve reading speed while retaining comprehension is to increase your vocabulary. 

Experts often contrast skimming with “close” reading, when a reader connects new information to prior knowledge, asks questions, and develops a deeper understanding of the text (although the exact definition is contentious). Some studies have shown that a close reading session causes more widespread brain activity than skimming.

For example, a grad student might read a text closely so that they can remember the information after the materials are no longer in front of them, Christodoulou explains. 

Some experts argue that the distinction between close reading and skimming or scanning might not be that useful, however. Van de Ven argues that during “close” reading, readers modulate their attention, using both skimming and close reading to get an understanding of a text. Studies show that strong and avid readers will often skim parts of a novel or skip ahead. 

Willingham says that getting a deep understanding also doesn’t mean reading each word in order as the term “close reading” might suggest. In fact, it might be totally nonlinear and involve rereading words or some sections of the text. 

Close reading is thought to require more focused attention and is typically more time-intensive—and it can be hard to maintain that focus. “Attention is something that is always in limited supply,” says Inge van de Ven, an associate professor of culture studies at Tilburg University. 

For reads that require more sustained attention, it can help to minimize distractions and get yourself in the right headspace, Christodoulou says. Studies show that our phones—text messages, in particular—can be a major source of distraction. 

In recent years, some research has suggested that reading on screens leads to more skim reading, since most digital media, from social media comments to online articles, tend to be relatively short pieces of text. Some experts argue that this has disrupted our ability to engage more deeply with long texts and, as a result, close reading is on the decline. Higher education researchers have speculated that this has had a detrimental effect on the cognitive skills of readers, particularly young readers, and negatively impacted our attention spans. However, this is hotly debated, with some arguing we don’t know enough to determine the impact of readers’ growing tendency to skim. 

“There's a lot of discussion that social media has sort of destroyed our ability to pay attention,” Willingham says. “None of us know, because this is a very difficult research problem. There is no control we can do.”

Willingham theorizes that our changing reading habits are likely not because our attention is degraded—that, he says, would have profound effects on other areas of cognition, like memory. But because the internet provides an opportunity for endless entertainment, our willingness to focus on a text might be decreasing, he says. There’s also a sense that we need to consume information quickly, because there’s so much of it, he adds. He is optimistic, however, that most people can learn these close reading skills with practice. 

“The mind wants to sample different things and see what's going on in your environment. And in some ways, sustaining attention on the same thing for very long periods of time is not necessarily a natural state,” Willingham says. Don’t be surprised if you’re reading a dense literary tome and get distracted, he adds. “Everyone’s bad at sustaining attention.” But like any other practice, it gets easier the more you do it, he says. 

Overall each person’s reading journey is unique, experts emphasize. Their motivation and skills may all be different, so it’s no wonder people employ a number of reading strategies, Christodolou explains. It might not be helpful to pit skimming and close reading against each other, but rather to understand that both are important to learn and consume content, especially in the digital age.

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Guidebooks can be wonderful resources for helping travelers navigate destinations. But the best travel books can also inspire journeys. Fiction or nonfiction, there’s no shortage of books with a sense of place just waiting to spark your next adventure. 

As a travel journalist and lifelong book lover, I often look to books for trip ideas. When I find a new title I love, I add it to my packing list. Doing so doesn’t just encourage planning; it enhances the experience on the ground. 

To help you find your next trip of a lifetime, I’ve compiled a list of my favorite books that touch on travel in fresh and even surprising ways. Always wanted to dive in French Polynesia? Richard Powers’s novel Playground will have you packing your scuba gear. Nat Geo’s 100 Nights of a Lifetime may spur you to skip the crowds and try astrotourism. The New Tourist nudges you to rethink not just where you’ll go, but why. 

All of these books awaken a sense of wonder for our world, whether you’re ready to hit the road or dream from the comfort of your favorite reading chair. Here are my top picks.  

• The New Tourist: Waking Up to the Power and Perils of Travel by Paige McClanahan 
• Here Not There: 100 Unexpected Travel Destinations by Andrew Nelson 
• Playground by Richard Powers 
• The Quickening by Elizabeth Rush 
• 100 Nights of a Lifetime: The World’s Ultimate Adventures After Dark by Stephanie Vermillion 
• Custodians of Wonder: Ancient Customs, Profound Traditions, and the Last People Keeping Them Alive by Eliot Stein 
• Finding Your Feet: The How-To Guide to Hiking and Adventuring by Rhiane Fatinikun  
• Mars on Earth: Wanderings in the World’s Driest Desert by Mark Johanson  
• 50 True Tales from Our Great National Parks by Stephanie Pearson 
• Amphibious Soul: Finding the Wild in a Tame World by Craig Foster  
• Atlas Obscura: Wild Life: An Explorer’s Guide to the World’s Living Wonders by Joshua Foer and Cara Giaimo 
• Taiwan Travelogue by Yang Shuang-zi  

Best for: Travelers who want to leave a positive impact 

Tourists get a bad rap. However, Paige McClanahan suggests we’re all tourists when we leave home and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. In her conversation-stirring book, the Paris-based American author unpacks the evolution of mainstream travel, from the guidebook-toting backpackers of the 1970s to the mega groups overflowing popular destinations today. 

Deeply researched, with dispatches from Barcelona to Iceland, McClanahan digs into the negative and positive impacts of tourism with nuance and care.  

Best for: Travelers who want to avoid the crowds

From Amsterdam to Venice, tourist hotspots around the world are grappling with overtourism. One solution? Traveling to under-the-radar dupes. Award-winning travel journalist Andrew Nelson offers 100 such places, among them Puglia’s cobblestoned Lecce, which has all the charm, history, and wine of busy Florence, plus sunny beaches. 

Instead of Miami, architecture buffs would do well to check out Detroit’s underappreciated but no less stunning Art Deco buildings. Nature lovers may appreciate Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef, Nelson notes, where massive whale sharks are more prevalent than they are in the Great Barrier Reef. 

Bonus: By visiting these lesser known alternatives, travelers will likely save money and come away with even more appreciation for our precious planet. 

Best for: Ocean lovers, futurists, and old-fashioned explorers  

This book will appeal to anyone who loves to read, not just travelers. Pulitzer Prize-winning author Richard Powers takes readers on a wild, awe-inspiring journey set in French Polynesia, where a tiny atoll becomes the base for a plan to develop floating cities in the world’s largest ocean.  

In Playground, Powers deftly navigates themes of AI, colonization, and climate change through the experiences of vividly rendered characters. It may not be a travel book in the traditional sense, but this story inspires reverence and respect for the ocean and all its wonders, especially when we travel. 

Best for: Travelers fascinated (and concerned) by Antarctica or polar regions 

Elizabeth Rush’s fresh and timely take on Antarctica focuses not on individual heroic feats, but on the power of community to create change. This book chronicles the author’s 2019 experience with 57 scientists and crew members aboard a months-long expedition to Thwaites Glacier, where no one has ever gone. 

Rush lays out what’s at stake for the planet if the world’s widest glacier, also known as “Doomsday Glacier,” melts. At the same time, she manages to offer hope. This is an essential read for travelers—or anyone—worried about climate change. 

(These winter essentials helped our writer survive Antarctica) 

Best for: Stargazers and night owls 

Travel journalist and author Stephanie Vermillion sheds light on 100 nighttime adventures around the world—and not all involve stargazing. From eye-opening evening tours of Rome’s Coliseum to glow-in-the-dark mushroom treks in South Australia, Vermillion details unique adventures in more than 30 countries. (Yes, there are plenty of astrotourism ideas too.) This is the perfect coffee table travel book for anyone who enjoys late-night adventures—even from the comfort of their own home.   

(Here’s a practical guide to stargazing) 

Best for: Travelers who appreciate slow travel, interesting characters and craft  

A chance encounter with one of the last inheritors of the 300-year-old lace-needling artform in Burano, Italy, inspired Eliot Stein to write his first travel story. Nearly two decades later, the BBC journalist and editor’s deep curiosity and reverence for the custodians of disappearing traditions around the world hasn’t waned. 

In this book, Stein crosses five continents and meets more than a dozen such people, from folks preserving West Africa’s living libraries to Scandinavia’s last night watchman. Stein’s ode to the past is an antidote to today’s travel equivalent of fast fashion, reminding us there’s so much more to this world if we slow down and “dare to listen.”  

Best for: Anyone new to hiking, especially women and marginalized groups 

After noticing a lack of racial disparity on hiking trails, Rhiane Fatinikun founded Black Girls Hike U.K. to provide a safe and inclusive community for Black women to explore the English countryside. Her book is full of practical advice about making the most of any hiking adventure, as well as inspiring interviews with Black outdoorswomen. 

Fatinikun takes it a step further by offering her favorite British hikes, including Glencoe Pass in Scotland and Land’s End in Cornwall, England. Fatinikun writes like an encouraging friend who wants other women like herself to get outside any chance they can get—and feel like they belong when they do.    

(From sunscreen to first aid, here’s all the hiking gear you need) 

Best for: Travelers interested in deeper experiences 

With its alien-like landscape, Chile’s Atacama Desert is like nowhere else on Earth. That makes it the perfect stand-in for Mars, according to NASA, and a well-photographed spot for intrepid travelers. In this evocative travel memoir, Mark Johanson details the three months he spent in the world’s driest non-polar desert, not for planetary research, but to learn more about his adoptive home in Chile. 

Diving into the legends and characters of this striking environment, the expat peels back the layers of a country where he’s lived for nearly a decade with his Chilean partner. Johanson’s vivid descriptions spur readers to go beyond “bucket list” travel and experience a destination in more meaningful ways.   

Best for: Young travelers and families who love the outdoors  

Geared toward young readers (ages 7-11), National Geographic Explorer Stephanie Pearson’s latest book is the perfect companion to her 100 Great American Parks. From Acadia to Zion, America’s “best idea” forms the backdrop to these stirring stories of bravery and discovery. 

Learn about the pioneering Black family who guides people through the Mammoth Caves of Kentucky and the sled dogs on snowy rescue missions in Denali, Alaska. With beautiful illustrations by Madeline Kloepper, this book is sure to inspire any child to make their own mark in the great outdoors.   

(Avoid crowds at these 10 least-visited national parks) 

Best for: Travelers who love the ocean and My Octopus Teacher  

Travelers captivated by Craig Foster’s Oscar-winning 2020 documentary, My Octopus Teacher, may enjoy his memoir. In it, the filmmaker, naturalist, and founder of the Sea Change Project dives into time he spent in places including the Great African Seaforest and the Okavango Delta, while sharing insights on how wonders of the water can connect us on land. 

Best for: Nature lovers  

Singing sand dunes, rainbow trees, exploding ants, and pink armadillos. In Atlas Obscura’s latest book, founder Josh Foer and plant and animal correspondent Cara Giaimo feature 500 of the most unusual and least-understood flora, fauna, and funga across all seven continents. With deep insights and playful wit, this detailed and entertaining field guide is ideal for travelers fascinated by nature’s wildest side.  

Best for: Fiction fans who love history and food   

Yang Shuang-zi’s novel may have “travelogue” in the title, but this National Book Award winner is much more complex than a typical foreigner abroad tale. Set in 1930s Japan-colonized Taiwan, it follows a Japanese novelist traveling with a translator who knows the island’s unspoken codes. 

As the story unfolds, the author touches on some of the best and worst aspects of travel, from food to what gets lost in translation. The book is both an ode for delving into worlds beyond our own and a reminder to let the narrative be driven by locals, not by a traveler’s romanticized notions.  

As a travel journalist for over 20 years who also reports on culture and books, I used my own experience and judgment to compile this list. In making my selections, I considered these factors: 

• Author expertise: All the books on this list were written by well-known authors or experts in their fields. 

• Acclaim: Books on this list have earned critical acclaim or awards, such as the National Book Awards in the case of Taiwan Travelogue. 

• Variety: This list includes a mix of destinations, experiences, and points of view to suit many travel interests. 

Kathleen Rellihan is a travel journalist who writes for National Geographic, Afar, BBC, Outside, and more. She also covers culture and books—especially the most travel-inspiring ones. 

*Although we are sharing our personal opinions of these experiences or products with you, National Geographic is not endorsing these experiences or products on behalf of anyone. It has not performed product safety testing on any of these products, did not manufacture them, and is not selling, or distributing them and is not making any representations about the safety or caliber of these products or experiences for individual consumers. Prices and availability are subject to change from the date of publication.

The Mountain Meadows Massacre was a brutal attack on more than a hundred emigrants en route to California in the 1850s. The wagon train party was attacked by Mormon militias at Mountain Meadows, a rest stop on the Old Spanish Trail in the Utah Territory, during a time of high tensions between Utah and the U.S. government.

Suspicion. Rebellion. Murder. The Netflix show American Primeval depicts how tensions between Mormon pioneers in Utah and the U.S. government came to a violent head in the 1850s.

A tense frontier. A brutal mass killing. Netflix’s newest hit miniseries, American Primeval, portrays life and grisly death in 1850s Utah—a gritty look at the Mountain Meadows Massacre, a sordid act of mass violence that led to 120 deaths on the western frontier in 1857.

The show’s portrayal of the massacre is hair-raising—but the reality was even worse. The culmination of a decade of tension and mutual suspicion between Mormon pioneers and the United States government, the Mountain Meadows Massacre took place during the Utah War—a conflict some refer to as the nation’s first civil war.

Here’s what led to the horrific violence, and why the clash is still remembered today.

Pioneers from the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints—a religious movement commonly known as Mormonism—first came to Utah in 1847 in search of freedom to practice their religion. Hostility had long beset the sect, and the Mormons had fled New York, Missouri, and Illinois. Joseph Smith, the religion’s founder, had been murdered by an anti-Mormon mob in Illinois in 1844. Now Brigham Young, the new Mormon leader, led his followers further into the frontier.

Their destination was Utah Territory, land the U.S. acquired from Mexico and Texas after the Mexican-American War. But though LDS members attempted to found their own state there—the proposed “State of Deseret”—the federal government rejected their attempt at self-government. Instead, it established the Utah Territory with Young as its first governor.

(The story of Sequoyah, another U.S. state that almost existed.)

The move should have brought stability, but relations soured during the 1850s. The territory was beset with challenges stemming from its relative lack of infrastructure, mistrust between white settlers and Native American residents, and religious clashes. The bombastic Young was suspicious of what he saw as federal interference in Mormon affairs. And when the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints revealed that it accepted polygamy—an explosive social and religious issue—controversy about Mormon rule in Utah grew nationwide.

In 1857 newly elected President James Buchanan began planning Young’s ouster. As national newspapers continued to report on the Mormons’ unconventional beliefs and theocratic territorial government, Buchanan and his cabinet declared Utah “in rebellion” and made plans for a large Army expedition to oust Young.

News of the coming offensive put Young and his followers on the defensive. Certain his sect was being persecuted, Young declared martial law in August 1857, and the territorial militia began preparing to clash with federal troops.

(What really happened at Wounded Knee?)

Young had leverage in his tussle with the federal government: Utah was a vital stop on the overland route West. As emigrants headed westward, their parties coalesced and formed large groups known as wagon trains—and their paths usually took them through Utah Territory.

Fiery national rhetoric against Mormonism had stoked fears among LDS members that they would yet again be ousted from their homes. In response, they became antagonistic to outside wagon trains and restricted trading to within their religious community. The Utah Territory was now on high alert, its Mormon residents ready for all-out war.

The stage was set for a dramatic clash between federal troops and Young’s territorial militia—when a large wagon train from Arkansas rolled through Utah Territory in August 1857.  

Now known as the Baker-Fancher party, the group was headed for California along the very trail the Latter-Day Saints expected federal troops to use to invade. Upon their arrival in Utah Territory, members of the mostly-Methodist wagon train party clashed with LDS locals, taunting their religious beliefs and arguing with them over their unwillingness to barter for necessary supplies.

(How did Death Valley get its name? Not from the heat.)

When the Baker-Fancher party began encountering embattled Mormon settlers near Cedar City, clashes soon ensued. The result was a “pressure cooker” pitting wagon train leader Alexander Fancher against local militia leaders like John D. Lee and Cedar City mayor Isaac Haight, historians Sarah Barringer Gordon and Jan Ships wrote in a 2017 paper.

Frustrated with what they saw as insults to their marriages, their homes, and their way of life, a group of Cedar City men led by Lee and Haight decided to teach the emigrants a lesson. They enlisted a group of local Paiute people to participate, with the goal of making the incident look like an Indian raid instead of an outrage by Mormon locals.

In September 1857, the militiamen and their Paiute helpers launched an attack on the Baker-Fancher party. The emigrants circled their wagons during a four-day siege. Then, on September 11, militiamen offered the remaining wagon train members safe passage through Utah if they put down their arms. When some complied, the militiamen began shooting.

Few were spared.

“Some of the young women begged the assassins…not to kill them,” recalled Nancy S. Cates, one of the survivors, in 1875. “But they had no mercy on them, clubbing [them with] their guns and beating out their brains.” One hundred and twenty people were slaughtered in total; the only survivors were young children, most of whom were later adopted by locals.

After the massacre, its perpetrators covered up the evidence. Only one conspirator, Lee, was ever prosecuted. He first blamed the Paiutes, then claimed the militia had ordered him to kill the settlers. He even implied that the massacre was the work of Brigham Young himself. In March 1877, two decades after the crime, he was executed by firing squad on the site where the massacre took place.

As it turned out, the Utah War didn’t last long. Young stood down as governor in 1858, allowing an army garrison in Utah Territory, and Mormons who had fled their homes in fear of a federal siege returned. Utah became a U.S. state in 1896.

The Utah War is now remembered as a “costly, disruptive, and unnecessary confrontation,” writes historian Richard D. Poll—but historians still argue about the Mountain Meadows Massacre’s role in the conflict.

What really happened near Cedar City that day in 1857—and was the brutality condoned or even planned by Mormon leaders? Was Mountain Meadows a brutal anomaly or proof of the danger of theocracy and religious intolerance? Given the lack of evidence, those questions may never be answered—but the memory of the massacre has yet to fade.

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

“There is nothing quite like walking barefoot through the boreal forest,” Joella Hogan beams. “The crunch of leaves, the snap of twigs, the dewy, spongey moss cushioning your feet. Overhead, light filters through the breaks in the canopy, mist from a nearby waterfall clings to the trees and birdsong often whispers on the breeze.”

It’s perhaps unsurprising, then, that being out on the land foraging for natural ingredients is one of Joella’s favourite aspects of her plant-based soap-making business.

“When the opportunity came up to buy the Yukon Soaps Company in the heart of the Yukon, I saw it as a way to reconnect people to Canada’s remote, wild north,” she explains. “Many of my products are made with wild botanicals from the boreal forest — spruce tips, rose petals, fireweed, juniper berries and labrador tea — and I rely on people in my local community of Mayo to harvest with me.”

Located at the confluence of the Mayo and Stewart rivers, the small mining town of Mayo is situated within the traditional territory of the Na-Cho Nyäk Dun First Nation, and is where the Yukon Soaps Company is based. Joella moved here in 2003 to reconnect with her grandmother’s community, land and language, and deepen her understanding of her First Nation Northern Tutchone heritage.

“Long before the Gold Rush, our people lived and thrived throughout these lands, yet we haven’t had the opportunity to share our customs and traditions,” she states. “Our stories were taken away from us and, if told, it was often without our consent, perspective or knowledge. Now, we’re working hard to take back the narrative and reclaim our local economy — and I knew I wanted to be a part of that.”

Growing up, entrepreneurship was a constant presence in Joella’s life, with both her father and brother running their own businesses. However, Canada’s First Nations people — particularly women — face numerous challenges, including limited access to capital, difficulties in purchasing property and obstacles to building wealth. This reality became all too clear to Joella when, seeking to expand the business, the bank she’d used her entire life denied her loan application.

“Until a First Nations person has a Lands Act, they cannot own the land they live on and they cannot own the homes built on that land,” she explains. “This lack of property rights is a big barrier against financial progress when First Nations people cannot earn equity on a house or use it as collateral to borrow money.”

Fortunately, Joella was able to secure a financial partnership, allowing her to expand production and relocate her home-based business to a new, custom-built facility in downtown Mayo named Raven’s Landing. It’s from there that she’s able to handcraft her variety of sustainable wellness products, which range from soaps to shampoo bars, bath salts, scrubs, salves, sprays and essential oils.

“My work is equal parts chemistry and art,” Joella states. “I love experimenting with the natural colours and flowers and, as I crush the petals and leaves, I’m reminded of the hands that harvested them. Not every batch turns out as I envision — sometimes, the look, the swirl or the texture isn’t quite right, but there’s a certain beauty in the unexpected."

But this story is about even more than handcrafting cosmetics and reconnecting locals to the land. Joella quickly realised she had an opportunity to empower and elevate the Yukon’s First Nations communities and share her Elders’ cultural teachings with travellers.

As a result, all her products are created using traditional Northern Tutchone methods and plant knowledge, and then packaged with helpful phrases, inspirational quotes and cheat sheets about the plants connected to the products.

“While I believe I create quality cosmetics, I see my impact more through storytelling,” Joella states.“I’ve learnt a lot from my Elders and want to continue to share stories of our culture and survival, bringing light to the issues that impact us.”

And it’s safe to say that every purchase has a positive impact. A portion of all proceeds is reinvested in the local community to support initiatives that train First Nations youth in traditional medicine, language and business skills. Financial contributions are also made to local charities and community groups dedicated to First Nations cultural revitalisation.

Visitors can discover the connection between the natural world and wellness at one of the Yukon Soaps Company’s creative workshops. These can be arranged through their website or by contacting them via social media.

Held at the company’s Raven’s Landing facility and led by skilled artisans, these sessions teach participants how to craft a variety of natural products, including plant-infused bath salts, air-purifying room sprays, felted soaps and sugar scrubs. Visitors are also encouraged to reflect on the cultural significance of the local plants, and how Indigenous knowledge may hold the key to a more sustainable future.

My Canada Trips has launched a rejuvenating, 14-night Canadian Wellness Getaway itinerary across the serene landscapes of British Columbia and the Yukon. The trip starts from £5,179 per person and includes international and internal flights, all hotel accommodation and car rental on Vancouver Island and in the Yukon.

The itinerary also includes optional excursions, such as a workshop at The Yukon Soaps Company. For more information and to book, visit mycanandatrips.co.uk

This story was created with the support of My Canada Trips, Destination Canada, Destination British Columbia and Travel Yukon.

Published in the The Experiences Collection 2024 guide, distributed with the Jan/Feb 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)

To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

A good night's sleep can be hard to come by when you're traveling.

Sometimes getting sleep in a hotel is an actual science. Try these doctor-approved tactics to make travel more restful.

Whether you’re traveling for leisure or for work, it can be hard to believe that hotels are in the business of sleep. Between uncomfortable beds, noisy air conditioners, slamming doors, and loud upstairs guests, rest can be a hard thing to achieve while away from home.

Dr. Rebecca Robbins, assistant professor of medicine at Harvard Medical School and an associate scientist at Boston’s Brigham and Women’s Hospital, knows the importance of sleep. Her research aims to encourage behavioral changes to improve sleep and circadian health, so it was only natural that she became interested in the hotel experience.

In a 2020 paper published in Tourism and Hospitality Research, Robbins and her colleagues found that only one in three travelers reported being satisfied with their sleep while on the road, but sleep satisfaction while traveling was a significant predictor of overall guest satisfaction.

With sleep tourism on the rise, and proof that hotels are beginning to take sleep more seriously, Robbins is now Hilton's sleep expert, helping to provide sleep strategies, including bedroom designs and hosting sleep retreats. Additionally she was consulted for Royal Sonesta's Benjamin Hotel’s Rest and Renew program. Here are some of her evidence-based tips for getting some rest while traveling.

“The truth is that when we are in an unfamiliar environment, we fundamentally have a harder time unwinding,” says Robbins. When we’re at home, our bodies relax more easily. Whether it’s new sounds or smells, our brains are on high-alert and scanning the hotel room as unfamiliar terrain.

 Smells with a positive association are scientifically proven to trigger a sense of well-being. In 2024, University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine researchers and University of Pittsburgh Medical Center published a study that showed familiar scents helped to break negative thought-cycles and overcome depression.

Soothing sounds are similarly powerful in easing our minds and promoting relaxation. While there are several machines that replicate the sounds of nature — a babbling brook or rainstorm is known to ease our nervous systems — white noise has also been proven to be beneficial for sleeping in noisy environments.

Whether it’s smells or sounds, find ways to bring the sensory familiarity of home to your hotel room. Candles are a hard no in hotel rooms, so pack a favorite perfume, lotion, or essential oil that can supplement a warm shower. Part of the Royal Sonesta’s Rest and Renew program includes a selection of white noise machines, but if your hotel hasn’t hopped on the sleep tourism bandwagon, you can bring your own portable sound machine.

 We don’t always travel for leisure. The trip may involve difficult family matters or work stress, but typically the things that are keeping us from falling asleep are not ones that you can act on at that moment. We’ve all heard about the benefits of a gratitude journal, but don’t underestimate the power of the worry journal.

 “The biggest impediments to our ability to fall asleep is a busy mind,” says Robbins. It’s not only strange noises coming from your neighbors that can keep you awake in hotel rooms, but also travel anxieties and a list of to-dos ping-ponging around your brain. Robbins suggests writing all of these worries down on a piece of paper as a way to relieve your brain from the burden of them and focus on the task at hand — sleeping.

(Related: Trouble sleeping on planes? These science-backed tips will help you snooze while flying.)

According to Robbins, good sleep is all about routine. Meditating, taking a long shower, using your favorite night cream, turning off your phone, or popping in your favorite pair of earplugs, your pre-bed rituals from home are key. Repeating those activities while traveling will soothe your body and spirit. “Being religious about these things is actually really important because your brain starts to understand that what comes next is sleep,” says Robbins.

 Pack your habits with you, even if you think they aren’t the best ones to have. You may feel guilty about your nightly bedtime television sessions, but “screens aren’t necessarily bad,” says Robbins. “If that's part of your relaxing routine, and it's not disrupting your sleep or your ability to fall asleep, I'd say to bring that routine with you when you travel.”

She does note that it’s important to have the screens off once it’s helped you hit that sweet spot, as its light has been associated with poor sleep quality.

It’s 3 a.m. local time, but your internal clock is still set five hours earlier. As hard as you try, you just can’t fall asleep. Soon you begin to associate your bed with stress and insomnia, and then the temperature of your mattress increases. If you’re struggling, especially in a new time zone, get yourself out of bed, tossing and turning won’t help you. Instead, leaving the scene of the crime will break the cycle.

Do something relaxing like a breathing exercise with the lights low, or even folding socks, whatever you find to be sleep inducing. “Then come back to bed when you're tired — that will help you strengthen associations between your bed and a good night's rest,” says Robbins.

(Related: Is sleeping on your stomach or back better?)

 Most importantly, find yourself a hotel that takes its hospitality seriously. While there are many things you can do to ensure a good night’s sleep while traveling, there are an increasing number of hotels that are eager to help you on your journey.

Popular hotel amenities now include blackout curtains, pillow menus and sprays, eye masks, bath bombs, and even an evening tea service.

Megan Margulies, an author and freelancer based outside of Boston, writes about health, motherhood, travel, and the natural world.

 

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

As temperatures drop and waterways freeze over, outdoor adventure enthusiasts can lace up their skates in search of perfect ice skating spots. Finding the best place for wild or Nordic skating, which involves skating outdoors on naturally formed ice, is no easy feat — the ice has to be smooth, without impurities or a layer of snow on top yet thick enough to be safe to skate on (typically at least four inches). Remember to never skate alone, wear appropriate clothing and stay reasonably close to the shore. Here are a handful of destinations around the world where you can experience the thrill of wild ice skating.  

When it comes to ice skating, Sweden is one of the best locations in Europe for anyone who can brace the icy conditions.

Lake Mälaren is a favoured location just outside Stockholm for experienced skaters without a guide.

Widely regarded as one of the best places for wild skating, Sweden offers a variety of glassy frozen lakes suited for skaters of all levels. If you can bear the harsh temperatures, take a chance and venture closer to the Arctic Circle, where you may also be rewarded with witnessing the twinkling green and blue shades of the Northern Lights.

If you’re not ready to venture to the Arctic, you can enjoy wild skating just 30 miles outside the capital, Stockholm — Lake Mälaren freezes over between November and April. Travellers are welcome to self-guide themselves, but can also book a tour through Green Trails, one of several companies offering guided skating trips across Sweden’s frozen lakes, starting at SEK 1650 (£120).

(Go ice skating beneath the aurora borealis in the Swedish Arctic.)

Lac de Joux sits on the French border, around an hour from Lausanne by train and is lauded as the largest free natural ice skating rink in Europe. It allows skaters to float along a seemingly endless frozen lake, surrounded by the towering Jura Mountains. Ice skate rental is available right by the lake and, on weekends, warm food and beverages are sold on the ice.

Around six miles long and just over half-a-mile wide, Lac de Joux begins to freeze around mid-December and is fully frozen by February, where it typically stays solid until the end of March.

Five hours from NYC and only two hours from Montreal, Mirror Lake in Lake Placid is especially good for beginner skaters looking for a laid-back and serene scenery. The two-time Winter Olympic Games host town allows visitors to skate on a two-mile-long ice track 24/7 when it reaches a safe thickness, which usually happens around mid-December.

While you’re at it, venture outside the area and explore one of the other 3,000 lakes and ponds hidden in the Adirondack mountains. Skaters can guide themselves at their own pace, but anyone wanting a more structured hiking or snow sport experience can book through Guide ADK, with tours starting at $200 (£164).

(7 destinations for wild ice skating in North America.)

Immerse yourself in the wild Canadian Rockies as you whirl along one of the several lakes in Banff National Park. Panoramic views of snow-capped mountains are just one of the many reasons to visit Banff in the wintertime. The best conditions for wild skating come earlier in the winter season around December before snow begins to cover the ice, making it harder to freely glide across the frozen lakes.

Lake Louise, about a two-hour drive from Calgary, is by far the most popular lake for ice skaters but 40 Mile Creek to Vermilion Lakes, Two Jack Lake and Lake Minnewanka are other noteworthy options. Banff Adventures is one of several providers offering winter experience packages starting at $104 (£85).

Skaters, curlers and ice hockey players are all invited to explore Fiè Pond in Northern Italy during the winter months. The tiny Italian lake is a perfect spot for those wanting to leisurely skate without having to worry about drifting too far from land. Surrounded by fir trees and towering mountain peaks, Fiè Pond is one of the only ponds in the region to be cleared of snow during the winter.

Skate rentals are offered onsite. The rental hut also offers food and drinks to enjoy after a long day of skating. Although there are no tours of Fiè Pond offered, visitors hoping to experience more of the Italian Dolomites can book an eight-day guided tour of the area through Exodus Adventure Travels from £1,009.

 

Located on the Japanese island of Hokkaido, Lake Akan welcomes skaters from around mid-January once the lake is fully frozen solid. The tree-lined lake, which is a four-hour drive from Sapporo, is at the heart of the Akan-Mashu National Park and has views of several stratovolcanoes including Mount Me-Aken.

By the beginning of February, the lake is transformed into ‘Iceland Akan’ with other activities such as snowmobiling and ice fishing on offer. G-Adventures offers Japan island-hopping trips that take guests from Tokyo to Sapporo, allowing to continue on to Lake Akan. Tours start around £3,699 and are offered year-round.

(Alternative winter experiences, from ice-climbing in Italy to camping in Finland.)

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At The Globe Inn, Burns Night features bagpipe performances, traditional toasts and a five-course feast.

Each January, indulgent and entertaining feasts take place across Scotland and beyond to honour national poet Robert Burns.

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

The first Burns supper was held in 1801, five years after the death of Scotland’s beloved poet, Robert Burns, setting a template that’s remained largely unchanged since: music, poetry, food, whisky. Held each year on or around 25 January (the writer’s birthday), Burns suppers traditionally begin with a reading of his poem, Selkirk Grace, along with a soup such as cullen skink.

Next, a platter of haggis is paraded around the room, often accompanied by a bagpiper, before being presented to ‘the addresser’, who then recites Burns’s poem, Address to a Haggis. After several courses and many whisky-fuelled toasts in between, the night is rounded off with a rousing rendition of Auld Lang Syne. Here’s where you can join in:

The poet’s favourite howff (haunt), The Globe Inn understandably makes a huge affair of Burns Night. The 2025 event will include entertainment led by piper Callum Watson, as well as special guests from the Howff Club, a set of local Burns enthusiasts. There’ll also be a five-course feast with all the traditional toasts, including the Toast to the Lassies. 25 January; £65 per person.

Given its location, a mile from Glen Garioch Distillery, whisky is naturally a standout feature of the celebrations at Meldrum House hotel. There’s a Glen Garioch cocktail on arrival and a dram is served alongside the haggis, which itself comes doused in a sauce made with the distillery’s Founders Reserve whisky. A Highland dance performance is followed by a lively ceilidh band. 24 and 25 January; £70 per person.

Expect a twist on tradition at the Ubiquitous Chip’s Beyond Burns event, where performers from the National Theatre of Scotland will present fresh interpretations of the bard’s works. On the menu there’s venison haggis, hogget shoulder with mussel ragu and seaweed broth and Arbroath smokie mousse with quail egg. The night isn’t a total snub to tradition, however — after dinner, there’s a ceilidh and a rendition of Auld Lang Syne. 23 January; £80 per person.

This hotel’s whitewashed exterior comes into its own on Burns Night, when it’s used as a canvas for a huge projected image of the poet to greet guests. The 2025 menu promises haggis with neeps and tatties, plus roast Angus beef with whisky-glazed carrots and, to finish it off, sticky toffee pudding with Drambuie butterscotch and clotted cream ice cream. Guest speakers will include broadcaster Jay Crawford and historian Ian Landles. 25 January; £85 per person.

Boisdale, the self-proclaimed ‘unofficial Scottish embassy in London’, located in an old Georgian townhouse in Belgravia, will combine its Burns festivities with the 35th anniversary of its opening. A week-long run of dinners will culminate with a Burns extravaganza on 25 January, with a piper to welcome guests and a live band playing traditional Scottish music. There will also be the Address to the Haggis and a five-course menu featuring Cullen skink croquettes, Balmoral estate venison tartare, mini roast haggis, baked halibut with Orkney razor clams, and Scottish shortbread. 20-25 January; £65 per person.

The historic Grantley Hall, situated in rolling North Yorkshire countryside, stipulates a dress code that’s in keeping with the stately surroundings: strictly tartan and kilts or black tie. Dinner includes a classic four-course menu of Cullen skink, haggis, neeps and tatties, as well as a whisky cocktail on arrival and a nip of Glenmorangie 12-year-old Lasanta alongside the haggis toast. Throughout the evening there’ll be bagpipe performances, poems, songs and traditional ceilidh dancing. 23 January; £145 per person.

Well-heeled and quintessentially English, Marlow might not seem like the most obvious place for a Burns Night celebration – but over at The Oarsman, Glaswegian chef Scott Smith will be hosting a night where wine, whisky and Scottish food are the focus. The four-course menu includes Stornoway black pudding with tattie scone, trout and Arbroath smokie cullen skink, and Highland Park whisky baba served with Buckfast tonic wine. To drink there are wine pairings from the restaurant’s 300-strong list, plus whisky flights. 23 January; £60 per person.

The star of the Burns lunch at the two-Michelin-star restaurant of Perth and Kinross’s Glenturret Distillery is the house-made haggis, featuring malted barley and – of course – whisky. It also crops up on tasting menus periodically through the year in various forms, from haggis-stuffed grouse to haggis sandos, but Burns Night is its time to shine. The rest of the menu for this year’s three-course lunch is still to be confirmed, but guests can expect champagne, bagpipes and poetry, alongside a private distillery tour and tasting that includes a dram of 14-year-old limited-release Glenturret whisky. 25 January; £175 per person.

Published in the December 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller Food (UK).

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With over a billion dollars in sales and many fans, there’s no question that Hoka is one of the most popular footwear brands out there. While they’re best known for running and walking shoes, Hoka also has several top-notch options for hikers, including the Anacapa and the Speedgoat for trail running.  

All feature Hoka’s signature cushioning, thoughtful designs, and top performance for tackling multiday treks or rocky trails. 

As a longtime travel writer, runner, and hiker, I’ve tried many of the brand’s styles—I even tested a pair of Clifton 9s while training for a marathon and walking the Camino de Santiago in Spain.  

After careful research and consideration, I think the Kaha 3 Mid GTX is the best Hoka hiking shoe. This model is known for its comfort and stability on rugged adventures. But hikers have varying needs, and Hoka has many other equally great models. Here are all my top Hoka hiking picks.  

• Best Hoka hiking shoes overall: Kaha 3 Mid GTX (women’s; men’s)
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for women: Anacapa 2 Low GTX 
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for men: Anacapa 2 Low GTX 
• Best waterproof Hoka hiking shoes: Anacapa 2 Mid GTX (women’s; men’s)
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for flat feet: Stinson 7 (women’s; men’s)
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for stability: Stinson 7 (women’s; men’s)
• Best Hoka hiking shoes with cushion: Kaha 2 Low GTX 
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for urban and trail use: Transport Chukka GTX (women’s; men’s)
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for winter conditions: Kaha 2 Frost GTX 
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for water: Hopara 2 (women’s; men’s)
• Best for hiking and running: Speedgoat 6 (women’s; men’s)
• Best Hoka hiking shoes for responsiveness: Skyline-Float X 

Have you noticed more Hoka shoes on the trail lately? That’s no coincidence. Known for its maximalist cushioning, Hoka has become a favorite not just among runners and walkers but also for hikers looking for comfort and performance. The best Hoka hiking shoes feature the brand’s signature cushioning plus good traction for navigating a variety of terrain. 

Why we like it: The Kaha 3 Mid GTX is an all-around great pair of hikers. Not only does this shoe have Hoka’s signature cushioning, but it also comes with Vibram Megagrip for reliable traction. 

Waterproof yet breathable—essential for multiday treks—this durable upper has an ergonomic design and a reinforced toe cap for protection from exposed tree roots or hidden rocks. 

“While they’re a bit heavier than other hiking shoes I’ve owned, you can’t beat their waterproofing, traction, and unmatched comfort,” says Joseph Burtoni, an avid hiker who has logged more than 600 miles in Kaha boots during his quest to visit all 63 of America’s national parks. 

Keep in mind: While the Kaha 3 Mid GTX offers all-day comfort, it comes at a price. The boot is heavier than other hiking boots, and some reviewers note the toe box feels smaller than previous iterations.  

Product details: Weight: 20.0 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 8mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Plush | Materials: Waterproof nubuck leather and recycled polyester mesh upper, EVA midsole, Vibram Megagrip outsole | Sizes: 7-15 (men), 5-15.5 (women) 

Why we like it: Designed for day hiking, the Anacapa 2 Low is lightweight and comfortable, thanks to the balanced cushioning. 

This waterproof yet breathable shoe comes with an abrasion-resistant toe cap. We also like that it’s made with the environment in mind, with a mix of recycled materials and Leather Working Group Gold-certified leather.  

Keep in mind: The Anacapa 2 Low can handle almost any kind of trail. However, some reviewers says it’s not the best for scrambling on steeper terrain with loose rocks. For those environments, you may want a shoe with a stiffer sole.  

Product details: Weight: 12.4 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 7mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Balanced | Materials: Waterproof nubuck leather, EVA midsole, Vibram Megagrip outsole | Sizes: 5-11 

(These are the best women’s hiking shoes)

Why we like it: This pair is especially great for hikers going on day trips or short backpacking trips. It’s versatile, comfortable, and breathable, even with Gore-Tex. As mentioned above, the Anacapa 2 Low GTX is made with lots of recycled materials and a Vibram Megagrip outsole for gripping slick surfaces. The extended Achilles tab gives hikers just a little bit of extra comfort. We also appreciate that this shoe has the American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA) seal of acceptance for promoting good foot health.  

Keep in mind: Some reviewers say the fit feels narrow, making it less ideal for hikers with wider feet. 

Product details: Weight: 15.3 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 8mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Balanced | Materials: Waterproof nubuck leather, EVA midsole, Vibram Megagrip outsole | Sizes: 7-15 

Why we like it: Hoka’s Anacapa 2 Mid GTX features a high-top style that makes hiking in wet conditions a non-issue. Allie Cheney, a Colorado-based outdoor expert for Sun and Ski Sports, tested her Anacapa boots while “crossing rivers, puddles, trudging through mud, and facing a wide range of temperatures from 98°F to 50°F,” she says. In the end, she says the shoe’s waterproofing and breathability surprised her. 

The best part of these Hoka hiking shoes is that they’re lighter than many traditional waterproof hiking boots—ideal for day hikes and short backpacking trips. Plus, they’re made with some recycled materials and Leather Working Group Gold-certified leather. 

Keep in mind: Some hikers report a slightly snug fit, so you may want to size up. Additionally, while the Vibram outsole provides reliable traction on most terrain, it may be less effective in deep mud. 

Product details: Weight: 18 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 7mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Balanced | Materials: Waterproof nubuck leather, EVA midsole, Vibram Megagrip outsole | Sizes: 7-15 (men), 5-11 (women)   

(Here are 9 of the best Hoka running shoes)

Why we like it: Although the Stinson 7 is technically a trail running shoe, it’s also one of Hoka’s best hiking shoes for flat feet because of the generous cushioning, wide toe box, and supportive arch design. 

Hoka’s “Active Foot Frame” technology helps create a “bucket seat” effect, which cradles the foot to help keep it stable. Additionally, the “H-Frame” sole helps support ankles, especially for those who overpronate. The breathable jacquard mesh upper adds ventilation, making this a great option for warmer days. 

Keep in mind: The Stinson 7 is not waterproof like most of the other hiking shoes on this list. Additionally, it may feel too wide for some hikers.  

Product details: Weight: 12.9 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm | Stability: Stable | Cushion: Plush | Materials: Engineered jacquard mesh, H-Frame and Active Foot Frame technology midsole, multidirectional lug outsole | Sizes: 7-15 (men), 5-11 (women) 

Why we like it: The qualities that make the Stinson 7 the best for flat feet also make it the best Hokas for stability. The broad base and Active Foot Frame technology work together to prevent lateral movement, reducing the risk of ankle rolls. 

The H-Frame sole, multidirectional lugs, and a stabilizing structure built into the midsole help secure your foot when you need to step laterally to avoid tree roots or walk uphill or downhill. These features are great for hikers who overpronate or carry heavier packs. 

Keep in mind: While the Stinson 7 is lighter than most other shoes on this list, it’s not the best option for trail running. For that, try the Speedgoat 6 (women’s; men’s), details below. 

Product details: Weight: 12.9 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm | Stability: Stable | Cushion: Plush | Materials: Engineered jacquard mesh, H-Frame and Active Foot Frame technology midsole, multidirectional lug outsole | Sizes: 7-15 (men), 5-11 (women) 

(Walk for hours with these top Hoka walking shoes)

Why we like it: If comfort and cushioning are top priorities on the trail, the Hoka Kaha 2 Low GTX may be your best bet. The dual density compressed molded EVA midsole and Hoka’s signature “MetaRocker” design make each step feel smooth and stable.  

With Hoka’s durable waterproof nubuck leather upper and a Gore-Tex membrane made from 71 percent recycled polyester, these shoes are designed to keep your feet dry and protected. The Vibram Megagrip outsole with its five-millimeter lugs, and you’ve got excellent traction for wet or uneven trails. 

Keep in mind: The thick leather upper and insulation may feel too warm in hot climates. 

Product details: Weight: 16.8 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 6mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Plush | Materials: Waterproof nubuck leather, EVA midsole, Vibram Megagrip outsole | Sizes: 3.5-14 (men), 5-15.5 (women) 

Why we like it: Hoka’s upgraded Transport Chukka GTX is the perfect mix of style and functionality. Features like the waterproof nubuck leather upper and breathable Gore-Tex membrane help keep feet dry whether you’re caught in a sudden rainstorm or tackling a muddy trail. The Vibram EcoStep outsole, made with 30 percent recycled rubber, grips well on everything from pavement to gravel. 

We love that the sleek chukka boot design looks polished enough for a day in the office or casual errands, but it’s also trail-ready. The engineered knit collar provides a snug, comfortable fit, and the quick-toggle laces make it easy to put these hikers on and take them off. The cushioning strikes the right balance between soft and supportive, making these comfortable enough for all-day wear.  

Keep in mind: While the Transport Chukka GTX is versatile, they’re better suited for easier trails.  

Product details: Weight: 14.3 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Balanced | Materials: Waterproof nubuck leather upper, EVA midsole, Vibram EcoStep Recycled EVO outsole| Sizes: 7-15 (men), 5-11 (women) 

(Here’s how the Hoka Clifton 9 held up on the Camino de Santiago)

Why we like it: The Kaha 2 Frost GTX is made with 400 grams of PrimaLoft Gold insulation and an aluminum reflective foil sock liner made for warmth in temperatures as low as -25°F, according to the brand. The waterproof Gore-Tex membrane keeps snow, rain, or slush from seeping in, while the durable polyester ripstop mesh upper adds an extra layer of toughness. The Vibram Megagrip outsole has five-millimeter lugs for great traction on icy or uneven trails. 

Thoughtful features, like the glove-friendly top-hook lacing system and heel pull tab, make these boots a breeze to put on and adjust—even when it’s freezing outside.  

The Hubble heel’s unique shape offers extra padding at the back of the shoe, absorbing impact and helping you move more smoothly and steadily, especially on slippery or rough terrain. 

“It’s a really good winter hiking boot that keeps you comfortable all the way,” says Henricus Vogels, a Dutch trail runner and hiking content creator, who has tested this model in wet and muddy conditions. 

Keep in mind: The Kaha 2 Frost GTX’s heavier build and robust insulation are perfect for cold and wet conditions, but they may feel excessive in milder climates or shorter hikes. 

Product details: Weight: 20.3 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 8mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Plush | Materials: waterproof Gore-Tex membrane, compressed molded EVA midsole, Vibram Megagrip outsole | Sizes: 7-15 (men), 5-11 (women) 

Why we like it: The Hoka Hopara 2 is a hiking sandal designed for adventure around water. Its rugged construction includes a Cordura mesh upper for durability and quick drainage, while the EVA midsole balances cushioning with firm protection. The rubber toe cap offers great protection when you’re wading through streams, while the four-millimeter multidirectional lugs on the sticky rubber outsole help grip slippery surfaces. 

The Velcro heel strap offers a customized fit—a welcome update from the previous version of this hiking sandal. The roomy toe box adds comfort for long days on the trail.  

These sandals may not be the lightest hiking shoes, but we like that they’re built to handle everything from rocky trails to casual cruises. 

Keep in mind: The Hopara 2 can trap sand, which is difficult to remove. This Hoka model isn’t the best option for narrow feet. 

Product details: Weight: 12.9 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 6mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Balanced | Materials: Cordura mesh upper, EVA midsole, rubber outsole | Sizes: 7-14 (men), 5-11 (women) 

(From clothing to gear, here’s what you should wear hiking)

Why we like it: The Hoka Speedgoat 6 is a versatile trail shoe for hikers who like to mix in some trail running. It’s lightweight and responsive, making hiking up steep trails or speeding through smoother paths comfortable. The Vibram Megagrip outsole has five-millimeter lugs for extra grippy traction on loose or uneven terrain. This updated version also introduces a more durable and breathable upper. 

Texas-based hiking coach Kristen Czudak credits the durable and lightweight design for helping conserve energy on her 24-mile rim-to-rim hike across the Grand Canyon and up Mount Whitney’s summit. 

Keep in mind: Some note that the Speedgoat 6 offers a more stable, yet less cushioned feel than the Speedgoat 5.  

Product details: Weight: 9.8 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Balanced | Materials: Woven textile upper, compressed molded EVA midsole, Vibram Megagrip outsole | Sizes: 7-15 (men), 5-12 (women) 

Why we like it: The Hoka Skyline-Float X is the only responsive hiking shoe in Hoka’s lineup. It’s got a dynamic ride that helps keep you energized on long hikes. The dual-density midsole and MetaRocker geometry provide a springy, forward-driving feel. 

That means the shoe absorbs the energy from each step and helps propel you into the next one. This quality, known as energy return, makes the Skyline-Float X a great choice for hikers who like to maintain a brisk pace or cover long distances without feeling weighted down. 

What’s unique about the Skyline-Float X is how it balances this responsiveness with stability and comfort. The shoe has a breathable upper and reliable grip from the Vibram EcoStep outsole. The high-stack midsole shields feet from rough trails while providing a firm, supportive platform that feels grounded. This combination can help reduce fatigue on extended hikes and makes the shoe suitable for carrying heavier backpacks. 

Keep in mind: At 14.9 ounces, the Skyline-Float X is heavier than other trail-running options like the Speedgoat 6 (women’s; men’s). 

Product details: Weight: 14.9 oz. | Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm | Stability: Neutral | Cushion: Responsive | Materials: jacquard engineered mesh, EVA midsole, Vibram XS Trek rubber outsole | Sizes: 7-14 (men), 5-15 (women) 

In addition to my own experience as a heavy Hoka wearer, I chose the products in this story based on reviews by customers, experts, and avid hikers. I also analyzed the technical details, such as material quality and outsoles.  

• Third-party reviews: I sifted through reviews from trusted sources and hiking communities to learn how each shoe performs in real-world conditions. 

• Expert sources: I spoke with experts, including a board-certified podiatrist and outdoor specialists, to better understand the impact of features like cushioning, stability, and waterproofing on hiking performance and foot health. 

• Personal testing: Whenever possible, the experts and I tested the shoes, evaluating comfort, fit, and traction across different terrain. 

• Technical details: I compared the technical features that matter most to hikers, including waterproofing, weight, outsole material, and lug design. 

Uppers 

The material used in the upper part of a hiking shoe plays a big role in comfort, durability, and breathability. Waterproof uppers, such as those made with Gore-Tex, are ideal for wet conditions because they keep feet dry without trapping moisture. 

Breathable mesh uppers provide better airflow, making them great for warm or dry climates. For rugged terrain, durable materials like ripstop mesh or leather offer extra protection. Choose an upper material based on where you’re hiking. 

Lugs and traction 

Outsole lugs are key for how well hiking shoes grip the ground. Deep lugs provide excellent traction on rocky, muddy, or slippery surfaces, making them ideal for technical or challenging trails. Shallow lugs offer a smooth ride on pavement or hard-packed trails. 

Terrain and trails  

The condition of the trail will determine the type of features you need in a Hoka hiking shoe. Stability-focused shoes with features like reinforced midsoles or wide platforms are better for uneven, rocky, or steep trails. Lightweight and flexible designs are more suitable for smooth trails, short hikes, or multiuse environments. Matching a Hoka hiking shoe’s features to the terrain will help make hikes much more enjoyable.  

Gender neutral vs. gender-specific shoes 

Hoka offers both gender-specific and unisex models, but the difference is minimal. According to Hy Rosario, Hoka’s head of product for the outdoors, women-specific shoes often feature a slightly softer midsole and a narrower heel for a more tailored fit. 

Are Hoka hiking shoes true to size? 

Hoka hiking shoes generally fit true to size, but hikers should consider sizing up for longer treks to accommodate room for swelling. “It’s common for feet to swell due to prolonged activity, heat, and gravity,” says Suzanne Fuchs, a board-certified sports medicine podiatrist practicing in Palm Beach, Florida. 

However, Fuchs cautions against having too much room. “It’s essential to ensure that the shoes still provide a snug fit in the heel and midfoot to prevent blisters and instability,” she says. 

What are the best Hoka hiking shoes for flat fleet? 

Generally, hikers with flat feet should look for shoes that provide “good arch support, a built-in arch, or the ability to accommodate custom orthotics,” says Fuchs, “as well as “stability features designed for motion control to help maintain alignment and support.” With its broad, stable base and built-in arch support, the Hoka Stinson 7 (women’s; men’s) is great for flat-foot hikers. This model also offers Hoka’s “H-frame” and “Active Foot Frame” technologies for stability. 

Are Hoka hiking shoes waterproof? 

Not all Hoka hiking shoes are waterproof. Models with “GTX” in their names, like the Kaha 2 GTX or Anacapa 2 Mid GTX (women’s; men’s), mean they’re made with Gore-Tex waterproofing technology. 

How to break in hiking shoes properly? 

Fuchs recommends breaking in hiking shoes over time. “Start by wearing the shoes for short periods from one to two hours around the house or on flat surfaces,” she says. 

Once they feel more comfortable, you can increase the duration and intensity, such as short walks on uneven terrain. She also recommends wearing the same socks for your hikes for the best fit and to minimize hotspots. 

Iona Brannon is a travel writer and photojournalist based in Indianapolis, Indiana. She’s also an avid runner, who has tested many pairs of running shoes. Follow her on Instagram.

*Although we are sharing our personal opinions of these experiences or products with you, National Geographic is not endorsing these experiences or products on behalf of anyone. It has not performed product safety testing on any of these products, did not manufacture them, and is not selling, or distributing them and is not making any representations about the safety or caliber of these products or experiences for individual consumers. Prices and availability are subject to change from the date of publication.

More than 10,000 buildings burned in the Los Angeles wildfires. Here, smoke rises along the Pacific Coast Highway.

Unlike roads and utility lines, the past is not as easy to recover and rebuild after disaster strikes.

The Los Angeles fires are a soul-crushing and city-defining disaster. Callous voices have called it a city-destroying event, but they don’t know Los Angeles very well. 

I have friends who lost houses. I have family who were burned out of their home. Los Angeles has lost churches, synagogues, and architecture that are part of our collective history—not just architectural gems, but civic hubs and touchstones for communal memory.  

In the Pacific Palisades and Malibu, gone is the Will Rogers Western Ranch in the state park that carries the actor's name, where I used to picnic on the lawn with friends. Gone is Moonshadows, a restaurant on the Pacific Coast Highway known for celebrity spotting, but also where I drank beer one afternoon with my wife after a lovely beach day, and sat by the windows, perched above the ocean, thinking how lucky we were to simply be there. Gone are architectural benchmarks like the Keeler House, a post and beam home that Southern California architect Ray Kappe remodeled in the 1990s, and Richard Neutra’s Benedict and Nancy Freedman House, a masterpiece of mid-century residential architecture.

In Altadena, one of my favorite, sleepier L.A. towns—also, after 1968’s Fair Housing Act, an enclave for Los Angeles’s Black community—the losses may be unknown to outsiders, but they were precious to us. Gregory Ain’s Park Planned Homes, a radical post-war experiment in building affordable prefab homes, are gone. Restaurants like Side Pie, a backyard pizza operation—later, a full-blown storefront—that soothed many during Covid, including me. Or the Bunny Museum, which was just as quirky as the name suggests, almost quintessentially L.A.-weird: a world-record accumulation of more than 45,000 pieces of rabbit memorabilia, all reportedly mostly lost to the flames. In multiple cases, rebuilding funds are being raised—my social media is one GoFundMe appeal after another—but there’s no guarantee for return. 

These places are more than just buildings. The language of architecture, stresses, loads, shear forces, suggests how we emotionally experience spaces we inhabit, and are transformed by them. Octavia Butler, the great science fiction author, wrote in the opening of 1993’s Parable of the Sower, a postapocalyptic novel about a Los Angeles engulfed by fire, “All that you touch you change. All that you change changes you.”  I know my own evolution through places—the suburbs where I grew up in Connecticut, a studio in Greenwich Village where I lived on my own for the first time. Houses become homes; rooms contain memories. The meanings we create and take from our corner coffeeshops or the restaurants that feed us, are suffused with sensory impressions, suggesting that when those places are destroyed, a part of us departs, too. I recently met a friend for coffee who grew up in the Palisades. “I haven’t even begun to process that my entire childhood is gone,” he said. 

The scale of the fires in Los Angeles has been difficult to comprehend, even for those of us who live here. The city is a singular American experiment in communal living. It is varied, diverse, and vast—simultaneously urban, suburban, and rural (not to mention the only major metropolis in the United States cleaved by a mountain range). Greater Los Angeles, what’s meant by “L.A.,” is nearly 20 million people—going by land, it’s the largest metro region in the United States. One of the few moments that I’ve laughed in the past two weeks was when I saw a post on social media suggesting that confused New Yorkers, to grasp the conflagration, might imagine Central Park on fire. With around 40,000 acres burned and 12,000 structures destroyed, make it more like 47 Central Parks. 

The Keeler House, built by architect Ray Kappe in 1991, was a celebrated example of modernist design, known for its exposed redwood beams.

What remains of the Keeler house.

Moonshadows was a Malibu restaurant where the author once concluded a lovely beach day with his wife.

Moonshadows was destroyed by the Palisades fire.

The Reel Inn Seafood Restaurant in Malibu, seen before the fire.

What remains of the Reel Inn seafood restaurant.

This moment will be a defining one for Los Angeles. Not only in how we move forward, but also for how we preserve what’s been lost—something that L.A. isn’t particularly good at with our predilection for boom and bust, living in constant flux, knocking things down to build anew. Amanda Barnes, the amateur historian behind the popular Instagram account CahuengaPast, named for the street that runs through the Hollywood Hills, agreed. “We have a short attention span and love to plant a new flag,” she said. “Los Angeles loves new ideas, trendsetting. It's the most consistent thing about L.A.” 

Barnes started her project in 2020, to document untold stories of homes in the neighborhood where she lives. “I describe this project as an intersection of architectural history, the metaphysical, and old celebrity scandal over the last 100 years,” she said. “There's a certain energy in this particular part of the Hollywood Hills, and the houses act as gatekeepers.”  

As a gatekeeper herself, Barnes digs through archives and old newspapers to surface all the gossip and swindles that can define a property—for example, making the connections between Neutra, author Aldous Huxley, and Krotona, the former home of Beachwood Canyon’s Theosophical Society, an esoteric, early 20^th century religious movement. (Incidentally, the Theosophical Library Center in Altadena is now also gone.) It’s all done in a spirit of celebration, though the project’s beginnings have a poignant source. Barnes lost her husband to leukemia in 2014. They met nine years earlier, and used to walk the Hills together, gathering information about homes just for fun. “Once CahuengaPast became an actual growing project, I realized I was more content and happy than I had been since before he was sick,” she told me. “That in talking about the ghosts of the Hills, by discovering and championing their forgotten accomplishments and trials, I had inadvertently helped me find a deeper peace with my own.”   

“It's such a great pleasure showing people how beautiful Los Angeles is—the nature, the scope, the quirky details, the architectural patterns and trends per era,” she added. “It's an incredible community.” 

Memories are as much the raw material of cities as concrete and steel. Thanks to oral history efforts like Barnes’, and the work of L.A.’s architectural and historical societies, our collective memory is reinforced—the physical and tangible, but also the abstract and illusory—even as fire continues to loom.  

Six years ago, in the fall of 2018, when the Woolsey Fire burned down nearly a hundred thousand acres, I was reporting my most recent book, an investigation into what it means to live in L.A., and I heard about a guy named Robert Spangle. Spangle graduated from Malibu High School in the mid-aughts and enlisted in the Marines Corps, completing tours in Afghanistan. During Woolsey, he put his training to use, sneaking behind police lines to join a crew of young surfers who were driving around the hills in pick-up trucks, putting fires out by hand. As a Marine, Spangle had been a radio telephone operator, managing his unit’s communications. During Woolsey, he dragged a camp table and sleeping bag up to the top of Point Dume, a prominent overlook above the Pacific, and kept watch for days, radioing down to the surfers whenever he spotted new fires breaking out. 

“I’ve been losing a lot of sleep the past few days,” Spangle said when I reached him last week. Today, he works as a photojournalist and designer, and he was in Italy when we spoke, preparing a small collection for Florence’s fashion week. “Part of [my fatigue] is dreams recalling Woolsey, and the other part is just anxiety over not being there, seeing friends lose homes and businesses.”  

Like all Angelenos, fire is familiar to Spangle. He remembered watching his parents prep the house and pack essentials while knowing that if the mountains did catch fire, his father would stay behind, despite evacuation orders, to defend their property. Spangle called it “the Malibu way.” In fact, when he was older and a fire rolled through, he thought of it as a rite of passage: his father allowing him to stay behind and help, while his mother and little brother evacuated. Now, years later, watching the news from thousands of miles away, he felt powerless. “I miss Malibu every single day, strangely even more during fires,” he said. “Community really is the irreplaceable thing.” 

Last week I passed a man playing ukelele in his sedan, with every inch of his car stuffed with belongings. Was he homeless before the fires? Was he a victim of these past two weeks? In present-day Los Angeles, it’s impossible to tell. It’s now day ten that I’ve had a go-bag in hand when I leave my apartment—a backpack stuffed with toiletries, backup batteries, important documents. As someone lucky enough to not live in an area that burned, I’m grappling with survivor’s guilt in different ways. I refresh fire- and air-monitoring apps constantly and pray for rain. While writing this piece, two fires started near me, though they were quickly (luckily) put out. I volunteer, I donate, I’ve made it mandatory to read the obituaries trickling in, as the dead are identified and described. But several times I’ve hit a wall. Running around for days, suddenly I’m barely able to get out of bed, staring at the ceiling, exhausted like I’ve rarely felt.  

The skylines east and west of my apartment are no longer filled with smoke. I look forward to getting back into the mountains, hiking the trails, saying good morning to people I pass. To borrow from Spangle, what is the “Los Angeles way” in this scenario? For all the losses, the past weeks have seen inspiring examples of resilience and humanity: neighbors helping neighbors, strangers becoming friends. Los Angeles will rebuild, we always do. New buildings will go up where old ones stood, and they’ll be different—we may not be able to replace icons of mid-century architecture, but we can design structures to better withstand future burns. And hopefully, when the fires return, all the linking arms and memory-making of this moment will leave us stronger and better prepared. 

 L.A.’s potential remains immense.   

Rosecrans Baldwin is the bestselling author most recently of Everything Now: Lessons From the City-State of Los Angeles, winner of the California Book Award.   

A female macaque prepares to mount a sika deer in November 2023 on Yakushima Island in Japan.

Two different groups of macaques have been spotted in Japan mounting sika deer. The behavior could be part of a shared “culture” between the animals.

In 2015, on Japan’s forested island of Yakushima, a male macaque jumped up onto the back of a female sika deer and started trying to mate with it.

At the time, researchers believed that the male’s low-ranking status might be driving the unusual behavior, perhaps serving as an outlet for having no breeding opportunities within his own species. In other words, it appeared to be a one-off encounter, which just so happened to have been caught on camera.

But then, in 2018, it happened again. 

Only this time, five female macaques were riding and rubbing male deer. What’s more, the behavior appeared in a totally new area—Minoh Quasi-National Park near Osaka, Japan, which is more than 370 miles away from Yakushima and across the Pacific Ocean.

Meanwhile, back on Yakushima, researchers kept seeing the deer-mounting behavior in 2020, 2021, and 2023. Interestingly, some of the later incidents appeared to involve the same male that first initiated the behavior in 2015. Researchers identified the monkey based on his striking, almond-shaped eyes—though they can’t be absolutely certain it’s the same animal.

“It’s difficult to recognize, but when you are a primatologist, you have to recognize each individual in the group,” says Cédric Sueur, a primatologist at the University of Strasbourg in France. 

However, if the animal truly is the same monkey, other monkeys in the troop may have learned deer-mounting from him, spreading the behavior through what’s known as social transmission, Sueur and his coauthors report in a study published this December in the journal Cultural Science.

“What is interesting is, maybe the first time the male did it was [due to] sexual frustration, so for one specific purpose,” says Sueur.

But now that the male has ascended to a dominant rank and the females around him are doing it, too, “the behavior is changing over time,” says Sueur. “It’s becoming more complex.”

undefinedIn 2017, a male macaque monkey was seen attempting to mate with a sika deer on the Japanese island of Yakushima. Researchers caught this rare interspecies behavior on camera.

(Macaques aren’t the only critters to ride other animals. See a weasel ride a woodpecker.)

Putting the sexual advances aside for a moment, sika deer and macaques already have an interesting interspecies relationship.

The deer follow the monkeys around, eating food they drop out of the trees, as well as nibbling on the monkeys’ feces. The macaques, in turn, munch on nutritious ticks and other parasites that they groom from the deer.  

This sort of exchange of services where both species benefit is what scientists call mutualism. Everything about the monkeys and deer acquiring food from each other fits the definition, says Judith Bronstein, an evolutionary ecologist at the University of Arizona who studies mutualism and was not involved in the new research. However, the mounting behavior seems like something else.

“My guess is the deer are extremely socially tolerant of the macaques, because they’re picking the parasites off,” says Bronstein.

And once the deer learned to tolerate one behavior, perhaps they started tolerating others, too. 

For instance, sometimes a monkey just seems to jump up onto the deer’s back and rest. When Sueur and his coauthors examined 45 video-recorded macaque-deer interactions in a second paper published in the journal Primates, they found that most monkeys just sat on the deer. The team hypothesizes that one or both species may even enjoy the extra warmth of bodily contact. After all, macaques are already known to huddle together when it’s cold.

“There are probably multiple benefits that they both receive from it,” says Bronstein. “I mean, there’s clearly a protection and nutritional exchange, just by the fact that the deer aren’t bolting when the macaques are around.”

As Sueur and his colleagues looked for other possible explanations for mounting, the scientists ruled out the idea that the macaques might be using the deer for travel. The deer do sometimes move while the macaques are riding them, but the time spent traveling and the distance traveled weren’t statistically significant.

The team couldn’t rule out one of the weirder hypotheses —that the deer may be acquiring regular nutrients by ingesting the male macaques’ ejaculate. But Bronstein is skeptical.

“I think it’s probably just annoying, right? Some stuff is on their back, and they just get it off,” says Bronstein. “I think it’s meaningless.”

(Why do some animals try to ride other animals?) 

While all of these interactions between the two species are scientifically interesting, they remain rare and hard to observe, which makes assigning meaning an even more difficult task.

“The last time I went to Yakushima, I spent five days there,” says Sueur, “and I could observe it for only two seconds.”

Still, the fact that the behavior is happening between both sexes and now in two separate locations suggests that the macaques and sika deer may be developing what the researchers call a “co-culture”. (Sueur and co-author Michale Huffman proposed the idea of co-culture in the journal Trends in Ecology & Evolution in September 2024.)

In animals, scientists use the word culture to describe behaviors that emerge in one or several populations, but not all of them. Some populations of chimpanzees fish for termites using sticks, while others have learned how to crack nuts with rocks, for instance. And different populations of humpback whales sing different songs. But with a co-culture, Sueur says two species must be evolving a suite of interacting behaviors at the same time. 

“In some other place, you will observe no interaction between deer and macaques,” he says.

Bronstein finds the co-culture idea “really quite interesting.” However, as far as whether the deer-mounting behavior is spreading through social transmission, she says it will remain a hypothesis until the macaques can be identified with total certainty. 

“It’s reasonable. I mean, these are super smart individuals, and there are millions of cases known among primates of individuals adopting new behaviors from watching each other,” says Bronstein.

<p>Former New York Congresswoman Bella Abzug (second from right) joins some 4,000 ERA supporters to march in New York City in 1980 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the passage of the 19th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution.</p>

First proposed nearly a century back and approved by Congress 50 years ago, does the beleaguered constitutional amendment have another chance?

“Equality of rights under the law shall not be denied or abridged by the United States or by any State on account of sex.” For nearly a century, those 24 words have been the subject of a longstanding battle to win women equal protection under the law. The proposed amendment is simple, but the fight to add the Equal Rights Amendment (ERA) to the U.S. Constitution has been anything but.

In his last days in office, President Biden issued an opinion that declared the amendment is "ratified." But, importantly, the proclamation doesn't mean the ERA text will immediately get added to the constitution. To understand why, it's helpful to know the long history of the proposed amendment, and the legal hurdles it still faces.

The amendment has its roots in the aftermath of the suffrage movement. Some activists were ready to retire after the 19th Amendment was finally passed in 1920, but Alice Paul was determined to keep fighting for the entirety of the women’s rights program laid out by founding suffragists in 1848. “We always had perfect loyalty to the whole program and, if we could continue, we knew that the thing must extend to get the whole program a reality,” she said in a 1972 oral history.

In 1923, Paul announced plans to develop and champion a constitutional amendment guaranteeing equal protection to both sexes. She named it after women’s rights pioneer Lucretia Mott. It was introduced in the 68th Congress in December of that year by Representative Daniel Read Anthony, Jr. and later revised and renamed after Paul.

The concept hit roadblocks from the start. Many came from other women’s rights activists, who feared the amendment might endanger hard-fought laws that protected women workers. Those concerns, and split opinions on women’s rights, haunted the amendment for nearly 50 years.

The ERA was introduced in Congress over and over again, but despite tantalizing victories, like public hearings and its passage in the Senate in 1946, it was never adopted. Meanwhile, the women’s rights movement changed dramatically as old-guard suffragists passed the torch to new activists. Paul continued her tireless advocacy for decades. She finally found the support she needed in the late 1960s, when second-wave feminists helped push it toward passage. Finally, in 1972, the ERA passed both chambers of Congress. (Here's how women around the world are taking charge of their futures.)

The hard work wasn’t over yet. To be added to the Constitution, three-quarters of the states had to ratify it within the seven-year deadline attached by Congress. But though it enjoyed broad popular support and was even part of both the Democratic National Convention and the Republican National Convention’s national platforms from the 1940s on, the ERA fell victim to political shifts.

Backlash to the women’s movement and the increasing conservatism of the Republican Party gave fuel to Phyllis Schlafly, an activist who opposed feminism and the amendment. Though legislators extended the deadline to 1982, the savvy opposition of Schlafly and her allies slowed and even stopped progress in several states. The Republican Party removed the ERA from its platform, and five states voted to rescind their ratifications in the 1970s. The amendment missed its 1982 deadline only three states shy of ratification.

But is the amendment really dead? Maybe not. Nevada and Illinois ratified it in 2017 and 2018, leaving it just one state shy of the majority—until Virginia’s General Assembly passed the ERA in January 2020.

Given that the seven-year ratification deadline has passed, though, it could face significant legal hurdles even with another ratification. Supreme Court precedent states that amendments must be ratified in a “contemporaneous” timeframe. On the other hand, the 27th Amendment, which prohibits Congress from handing itself a bump in pay before an election, was suggested and written by James Madison more than two centuries before its ratification in 1992. And it’s not clear how the states that rescinded their ratifications would be handled even if Congress agrees to accept the latecomers. (Essay: Why it's time for women to demand equality.)

This is why, even with President Biden's recent declaration, the fate of the amendment is still uncertain.

Though a constitutional amendment could never address all disparities, the amendment’s supporters say it could provide clearer definitions of gender discrimination and prevent a rollback of women’s rights to things like abortion. Despite recent successes, however, the ERA’s future is still uncertain—and the most contentious phase of its century-long history could still lie ahead.

Editor's Note: This article was originally published in 2019 and has been updated with the news of President Biden's declaration.

The U.S. presidential inauguration is the ultimate symbol of the peaceful transfer of power in America. Even after contested elections—and when the union among the states was in peril—presidents have stood before the public and sworn an oath to “preserve, protect and defend the Constitution of the United States.”

Inauguration Day’s many traditions help reinforce that symbolic role. Typically, the day begins with the president-elect traveling with the outgoing president and congressional leaders to Capitol Hill to take the oath of office and deliver an inaugural address before throngs of people. The new president then leads a parade back to the White House, and caps off the day by attending multiple inaugural balls held throughout the nation’s capital.

These traditions are more than just pomp, says Matthew Costello, senior historian at the White House Historical Association. “To be this politically stable with one form of government is unusual. So when we talk about what makes America unique or exceptional, these are the moments where we get to see it in action—we get to see one president handing power off to the next.”

This doesn't always happen. In 2021, President Donald Trump became the fourth president in U.S. history to skip his successor’s inauguration. But this year former Presidents Barack Obama, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton are expected to attend Trump's inauguration after his reelection.

(How to talk to kids about the election.)

But the symbolism of this year’s ceremony will be as critical as any in years past. Here’s a look at how inaugural traditions have evolved, and how they reinforce the peaceful transfer of power that’s one of the foundations of America’s constitutional democracy.

The U.S. Constitution stipulates that a president must take the oath of office before the start of a term. Even presidents who are reelected swear the oath of office again at the beginning of each four-year term—a tradition that started with the country’s first president, George Washington, whose inauguration also set the standard for some of the day’s important rituals.

On April 30, 1789, Washington was escorted by a military contingent to New York City’s Federal Hall, then home to the U.S. Congress. He was sworn in on a balcony as hundreds of people looked on from the streets below, then delivered his inaugural address from the Senate chamber. After a church service and a quiet dinner at home, Washington took in a firework display that lit up the New York skies.

(President George Washington: Calm, Cool, and Collected Commander in Chief.)

For nearly 150 years after Washington’s first inauguration, the ceremony was held in early March. In 1933, the ratification of the 20th Amendment moved the date to noon on January 20 to shorten the transition period that had proven fraught during pivotal times such as the Civil War and the Great Depression.

Although Washington had startled the world by stepping down after two terms—relinquishing the presidency to Vice President John Adams in 1797—America’s first real test of the peaceful transfer of power occurred with the 1801 inauguration of Thomas Jefferson, the nation’s third president.

Tensions between Adams and Jefferson were running high following a bitter election. They further escalated during the transition period as Adams nominated a slew of judges in a move that was seen as an attempt to hamstring his successor. On Inauguration Day, however, Adams stepped aside and Jefferson delivered a conciliatory address, promising to protect the rights of those who hadn’t voted for him and calling for Americans to “unite with one heart and one mind.”

Although Adams didn’t attend Jefferson’s inauguration—he left the capital by stagecoach that morning—it’s unclear whether that was because of the rancor between the two men or simply because the tradition wasn’t fully established.

Jefferson would attend his successor’s inauguration, and the only other outgoing presidents who have skipped it entirely were Adams’ son John Quincy Adams in 1829 and Andrew Johnson in 1869. Both men disliked their successors—Andrew Jackson and Ulysses S. Grant, respectively—while Johnson also resented having been impeached by the House of Representatives a year earlier.

In 1837, eight years after being snubbed by John Quincy Adams, Jackson not only attended Martin Van Buren’s inauguration but also became the first president to accompany his successor to the Capitol. Though it wouldn’t become a consistent tradition until the 20th century, Jackson’s example has been followed even by presidents who didn’t get along—such as Herbert Hoover and Franklin Delano Roosevelt, who shared a silent ride to the Capitol in 1933.

A cameraman in front of the dome of the U.S. Capitol Building during the inauguration of President John F. Kennedy on January 20, 1961, in Washington D.C. Inaugurations have become increasingly public since George Washington first swore the oath of office before a crowd.

Telecommunications advances—from the telegraph to the television—allowed even more Americans to witness the peaceful transfer of power that occurs every four years at the presidential inauguration.

First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy looks over her shoulder at an inaugural ball after her husband, President John F. Kennedy, took the presidential oath earlier that day on January 20, 1961.

President Dwight D. Eisenhower and President-elect John F. Kennedy have their first official meeting at the White House on December 1, 1960, almost two months before Kennedy took office. After Kennedy’s assassination in 1963, Eisenhower helped guide Vice President Lyndon Baines Johnson into office.

Most of the other inaugural traditions that are iconic today can also be traced back to Thomas Jefferson. In 1801, he was the first president to be inaugurated at the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C., which was then still under construction. He invited the U.S. Marine Band to play at the ceremony and gave them the moniker “The President’s Own.”

After winning reelection four years later, Jefferson inspired the inaugural parade when a spontaneous gathering of people lined the streets to watch him ride on horseback to the White House—which he then opened to the public for the first inaugural open house.

In the years since, inaugural parades have become increasingly elaborate with floats, musical performances, and reviewing stands erected from which presidents watch the hours-long affair. In 1977, Jimmy Carter started the modern tradition of presidents walking back to the White House from the Capitol. As the White House Historical Association explains, Carter sought to signal to Americans that he would be a president who was “available for all citizens.”

Parades grew so long that presidents eventually stopped hosting receptions—though not before 1829, when Andrew Jackson had to escape a crush of 20,000 well-wishers through a White House window.

In 1809, James Madison became the first president to have a formal ball on Inauguration Day. Four hundred guests attended the ball, which was hosted by First Lady Dolley Madison at a hotel on Capitol Hill. Over the years, the tradition ballooned and, in modern years, there are usually dozens of official and unofficial inaugural balls.

Over the years, the ceremonies have become increasingly public affairs, with details shared more widely with each advance in technology. News of the presidential inauguration was first transmitted by telegraph in 1845 (James Polk), national radio broadcast in 1925 (Calvin Coolidge), television in 1949 (Harry Truman), and the internet in 1997 (Bill Clinton).

“Over time, what we see is a gradual expansion of having the public more involved as witnesses to history,” Costello says. “Having them be able to hear the inaugural addresses, be able to see the swearing-in ceremony.… It allows them to actually see the transfer of power.”

This year’s inauguration will be quite a bit different, with security restrictions due to both the pandemic and threats of violence. But inaugural rites have weathered national crises before—and have at times evolved to meet the moment.

In 1861, seven Southern states had just seceded from the Union in protest of the election of the anti-slavery Northerner Abraham Lincoln. According to the Library of Congress, the “federal government was on guard against insurrection and possible assassination attempt on Lincoln. Cannons, primed and loaded, lined Pennsylvania Avenue, and rooftop sharpshooters scoured the crowd of well-wishers below as the presidential party made its way eastward to the U.S. Capitol.”

Lincoln nevertheless took the oath of office before the crowd and delivered an inaugural address appealing to his countrymen’s “better angels” to be “not enemies, but friends.” Four years later, in the midst of the Civil War, he stood again before a crowd to urge a divided nation to reconcile “with malice toward none; with charity for all.” Lincoln’s second inauguration also marked the first time that African Americans were invited to take part in an inaugural parade.

(Past inaugural addresses have shown the way forward through times of crisis.)

In 1945, another war prompted Franklin Roosevelt to pare down his fourth inaugural. In its fourth year of fighting World War II, the nation was rationing supplies, from food to gasoline to firewood. In the spirit of conservation, Roosevelt decided to cancel the inaugural parade and balls and have just a simple public swearing-in at the White House rather than the Capitol.

Four years into World War II, citizens attend President Franklin Delano Roosevelt's fourth inauguration in 1945. In the spirit of rationing for the war, Roosevelt cancelled the inaugural parade and balls.

Officials install parking restriction signs in preparation for President Roosevelt’s pared-down inauguration, which took place at the White House instead of the Capitol Building.

Several past U.S. vice presidents had emergency swearing-ins rather than inaugurations when their predecessors died in office. In 1881, Chester A. Arthur took the oath of office at his home in New York after James Garfield was shot. Presidents Theodore Roosevelt and Calvin Coolidge also had private swearing-in ceremonies, while Lyndon Johnson took the oath aboard Air Force One after the assassination of John F. Kennedy in 1963.